Calcutta Book Fair 2011

To borrow words from Amir Khan’s lips, in Kiran Rao’s maiden directorial venture,the off-beat, ‘Dhobi Ghat’. Here is to Calcutta – my muse, my whore, my beloved !

We live in a dangerously political era. I firmly believe there is nothing more futile than ‘Zen and the art of renaming’ ! Our politicians, continue to dog-fight amongst themselves as to what is a more appropriate name. Bombay became Mumbai. And you dare not publicly ever call it Bombay name, especially if you live in the public space. You still may, only to then bear the wrath of the ‘Shiv Sainiks’, or lately the MNS henchmen. Calcutta for all it’s trappings, and even though officially renamed to Kolkata; is not quite an incendiary issue unlike it’s western or southern cousins.

Book Fair has been quite a storm in the tea cup ever since it was moved out of Maidan since 2009. Milan Mela – a permanent fair ground on the E.M. By-pass is the new home for a tradition that dates back to 1976. Now then, Milan Mela complex does not match the ‘Pragati Maidan’ in Delhi, in either size, grandeur,  facilities, or infrastructure. But then your erudite book loving Calcuttan will go to any lengths to defend the ‘Calcutta Book Fair’ as a grand affair that is unparalleled. I am no different.

Both the city of Calcutta and the book fair has been transmogrified in a way that is both good and bad. Over the years we have seen some good governance, bad governance and some ugly.

The gates to this year’s book fair were thrown open on the 26th January, the Republic Day. Being an ardent follower of the tradition, I was there on the same evening. Now most of us would recall Book Fair to be one dusty affair, little has changed in that respect. Dust is an integral part of ‘Boi Mela’. Huge acres of lands adjacent to the Milan Mela complex are used as makeshift parking lots. The parking lot represents the moonscape and needs special driving skills to negotiate the traps laid for you and your car. But then again, it does not stop us Calcuttans to throng the Mela with unbridled gusto !

Below is a story told in pictures.

The chunks you see in the picture above almost seem like chips of some rogue asteroid that dropped from the sky. Hence the special driving skills !

The parking booth, you can see the smog is in the air, just like love was in the air !

So this year’s edition does score a first. It is free entrance. Not even the customary Rs. 5 or Rs. 10. A gesture by the state government in the 150th year of the much revered Noble Laureate Rabindranath Tagore The state government has gotten more than it’s share of flak by awarding the Book Publishers Guild the status of a not-for-profit status and slashing and then double slashing the rental for the fair ground.

* Pardon the poor quality of some of the pictures above. 

USA has been selected as the focal theme of this year’s book fair. Quite a contrast and a shift in paradigm of the 30+ year ruling left government. Imperialism vs. Communism takes a back seat, at least for the duration and in the context of the Boi Mela.

As you can see a huge near replica of the US Capitol has been erected at the mela premises. Some interesting comments were overheard in context of this structure. Quite common as it is to get lost in a book fair, but now with the aid of mobile technology and such magnificent structures serving as landmarks; it is not as bad as before. So I was privy to the following remarks:

• আমি ওই ‘White House’ এর সামনে আছি তাড়াতাড়ি চলে আয়ে লম্বা  line আছে (I am in front of the White House. Come quickly, there is a huge line to enter it.)
• তুই কথাযে ? আমি ওই  ‘America’r Showroom’ হয়েছে তো,  তার  সামনে আছি ! (Where are you ? I am standing in front of the American Showroom !)

I too stood in the line to enter ‘America’ ! As one would guess it, the theme inside was ‘Social Networking’ the latest buzzword !

Below are some more sights from the much awaited book fair !

 

With the continuing push towards green, renewable form of energy. Here is a ‘Community and Domestic Solar Cooking System’ at display. In the same vein, you would see green vehicles below, both in letter and spirit !

* WBREDA = West Bengal Renewable Energy Development Agency

Finally some books !

The gigantic roof at the Milan Mela complex

                                                                                     Loosely translated as ‘Children Study Room’ !

This was it for Day 1 at the Book Fair 2011. To be continued in a separate post titled - ‘Calcutta Book Fair – more than just books, Day 2’ …

Ah, The Circus of Life !

For those who have spent their childhood in Calcutta – you will remember visiting Circus was an annual ritual every year. Those were the days of multiple circus brands held across different parts of city.  It was an annual fest that entertained children and adults alike. Over the years, modern entertainment swept across the city. First came the multiplexes, then came the malls, then came the water park, the entertainment parks so on and so forth. Also the PETA folks kicked up a storm apropos the ill treatment of animals by the Circus management - an incendiary issue. 

The urbane audience has taken the leap of modernity and Circus is now a fading art. However some still hold this art dear to their heart. The winter of year 2010 marked the return of Olympic ‘African’ Circus to Park Circus, which got it’s name from the days when it became a focal point during the winter. It became home to circus companies and kids all over the city flock to the maidan to watch circus. The colorful  circus tents, the hawkers vending variety of finger foods is something all the kids desired.

Some would recall ‘Mera Naam Joker’, that told the story of Mary and Raju the joker. This film was released in 1970, even before I was born. Those were the hey days of this art ! The elegance and poise of the Trapeze artists are not to be seen.

I cannot remember the ticket prices from decades back, but now they are available in denominations of  Rs. 30,60,100 and 150. I am fortunate to be able to afford the 150 tickets, which quite literally gave me a ring side view.

The show starts off with acrobatics and gradually makes it way upwards via jugglers, dog tricks, African gymnasts, animal parade, cockatoo tricks, cricket playing elephants, the valley of death (motorbike riders in a metallic globe, the jokers with their little acts so on and so forth. A couple of things did catch my attention. I found them quite impressive. One was the juggling and balancing act by a particular juggler defined epitome of hand-eye coordination. The second was a ‘Puja’ performed by elephants, where they worshipped an idol of Lord Ganesha complete with flowers and garlanding the elephant God, sprinkling of holy water and even breaking a coconut. The elephants for a change looked healthy and well fed. I cannot but say that it is indeed a little scary, as these giant creatures parade the circus ring. A stray thought crosses my mind, what if they just go berserk or decide to get a little temperamental The only ‘trick’ that made my jaws drop, was an ‘item number’ where scantily clad girls danced to the tune of the raunchy ‘Munni Badnam Hui’, while one of the girls kept spitting fire (the-fire-spitting-trick). Sad to see the pop culture affect good ‘clean’ (PETA folks will debate this) entertainment. And oh yes, NO Lion tricks anymore !

Old fashioned it may be, but still good unadulterated fun for people across all ages. All those who have given it a miss lately and have memories of circus visits holding the hand of your parents. Do the same for your kids, hold their hands, take them back to the future !

Enjoy some of the pictures we clicked while enjoying the Circus of Life !

 

Besides the pictures, I would like to a short video. Hope you like it and relive some memories !

The ‘Biryani’ that broke my tooth !

Royal Indian Hotel, here in after referred to as RIH or just Royal  is a name synonymous with Mughlai food in north central Calcutta. Located on the historic Chitpur road in the Burrabazar neighborhood. Home to the business bourgeois of the city. This place is normally not frequented by the well heeled or the upwardly mobile and those with a ‘Holier Than Thou’ attitude.  I have memories of this eatery from my growing up years when I used to tag along with my Dad on our eating out sprees. Royal is nestled among some non-descript shops selling mostly Kurtas, Sherwanis, and other clothing paraphernalia. As such this is situated in a very congested part of the city, where the fastest mode of transport often can mean walking to your destination.

Sundays are normally a blessing for at least some streets in Calcutta, as the roads are mostly devoid of business traffic and it is generally given a miss by the rallyists. Ain’t that a blessing? Wish we had more than just one Sunday in a week ! I decided this past Sunday, it was time for ‘Close Encounters of a Royal Kind!’. Decided to give my car a much needed break and used mass transit to reach my destination in a record 25 mins from Salt Lake.

The Royal Chef

Both Fat and Hope Floats !

Dining Hall for upper echelons of the society

RIH is split it into two levels, ground floor for mere mortals and the first floor dining hall for the upper echelons of the society. I self-invited myself to the privileged first floor dinning hall. It was 2:30 pm, and the place was only a trifle busy. Got my self a comfortable table and had Nandan Nilekani for company, while I sipped on my Thums Up, and briefly browsed the Royal Offerings !

Some of the other diners looked at me in amazement and talked in hushed tones and occasionally broke into a laughter similar to that of a gang of school girls sharing girlie talk ! I take, they were amused looking at me taking pictures on my camera phone of otherwise banal subjects. I did not waste much time or deliberated too much on what I wanted to start out with. Ordered myself ‘2 Rotis and Mutton Chaap’ to begin with. 

 

This is a signature dish that will wake up a dietician from his/her grave. It probably has enough calories for a week if not longer. But you might wonder, since when have I started watching my calories. Well, the answer is simple, I don’t. Just a head’s up for those who might. I say ‘You only live twice!’.  For those unaware, this preparation is made by beating mutton fanatically, until the tissues begin to break down. It is one of those dishes that should come with a disclaimer - ‘These stunts are performed by professionals, please do not attempt this at home !’

My hunger quadrupled and I dug into the Rotis and Tender Meat ! This dish is quite literally, not for the weak at heart. Weather in a word - Hot and Spicy ! I was nearing completion of the first course was when the luncheon reached it’s anti-climax. I was struggling with what I initially thought of a bone that got stuck in a tooth-cavity, in my upper jaw. I was in pain, and the uneasy feeling cannot be put in words. I tried poking at it with a tooth pick and my tongue. All in vain.

I had already ordered the Chicken Biryani and had asked for it to be brought out a few mins after the first course was served. The serving crew took no cognizance of my compromised situation and brought out the Biryani.

The Biryani looked inviting and I momentarily forgot about the stuck-bone-in-my-tooth. However, as soon as I started to chow down the Biryani hurriedly, the food was hurting my upper jaw and I continued to struggle. I continued to probe at it, trying to edge it out by rolling my tongue inwards and forcing it out. And voila !

No this is not a pearl ! 

What came out was a portion of my tooth ! And now it dawned on me that all this while what I was struggling was not some meat bone, but my own tooth. I could feel a warm gush in my mouth. I could taste my own blood. No, I was not going to bleed to death but it was still a little scary. I have saved this broken tooth, and it could belong to the ‘Royal Museum’ !

Never say die attitude got the better of me. And I got back to the business of polishing off my Biryani. I had wanted something to go with the Biryani and was delighted to see ‘Mutton Pasinda’ on the menu. The joy was short lived as it was on the dinner menu for Sunday not lunch. I was offered ‘Mutton Seekh’ kebabs as a suitable replacement, but then they found out even that was not available. Finally settled for ‘Chicken Reshmi Kebab’ which looked much better than it tasted. I could not find anything wrong with it, except for the fact that it was just too manicured for my taste buds. The kebabs were plump and succulent but missed the X factor !

A quick word about the Biryani – the quantity of rice wasn’t enough if you are really hungry. The chicken was a tad too stringy. Overall Biryani was may be just a 6/10.

I normally hate to leave food on the table. But in this case, had to resort to it. Now that my carnal desires were met, I was ready for some socializing.

I introduced myself to the most elegant member of the Royal Crew – one Mohammed Ishrafique. Mohammed bhai has been serving the Royal army since 1976. I was then an innocent three year old, not exposed to the ways of the world ! Mohammed bhai after an initial bout of apprehension, acquiesced for a picture of his. Though not smiling in this picture, he gleefully shook my hand.

No meal is complete without a dessert or two. I was offered Firnee or Shahi Tukra (not in picture). Ignoring my penchant for the unknown, this time I went for Firnee. And have no regrets I did. One is never enough for a big man like myself, so I pigged out on another one. Lucky not to have lost my ‘sweet tooth’, despite losing a ‘tooth’ !

I paid my debt to the society, a total of Rs. 309, plus a handsome tip and bid adieu. ‘Khuda Hafiz’, I thundered to Mohammed bhai before walking out the door !